Ahhhh, finally, a pizzeria owned and run by Neapolitans. I'm excited. And even better, our server is from the same quarter where I lived in Naples--Vomero. It should be a good night for pizza.
The space for the restaurant is really nice--open concept. The music has been kept to a low level, as the noise in the space from everyone talking is really loud and bounces every where. I actually couldn't hear my dining companions.
My companions had the house greens salad, which consisted of radicchio, tomatoes, oranges and lettuce. It was lightly dressed with olive oil and vinegar, and quite refreshing.
The bread was wonderful--warm, covered in rosemary and flavourful. So far, so good!
The pizza arrived, and sadly was auctioned off at the table. I opted for the classic Margarita pizza. And was disappointed. The crust was so soggy from the mozzarella, (not Bufala, but fiore di latte, which tends to be wetter), and what was sopping wet was hard (the actual crust of the pizza was like lead). I couldn't roll the slice into a funnel to eat it in the traditional style.
No oil had been poured onto the pizza.
But worse, oh much worse, was the fact that the sauce had no flavour. Zilch. It was like having cheese and bread for supper. Some salt might have fixed this situation, but I was too scared to offend anyone by asking.
I hate to say it, but I give this place a 4/10.
Friday 26 October 2012
Monday 1 October 2012
Queen Margherita Pizza, 1402 Queen St. East
This shop is in my 'hood, and we've been several times, but not since I started to write this blog. At first, I was hesitant to go, the pizza had slipped in quality, and there was never enough sauce on the 'za. What's the point in paying over $12 for bread and cheese? I thought.
Of all the pizzerias I've been to, I have to say that the interior of Queen M is the nicest. The bar is down stairs, the upstairs is the main seating area, which has beautiful windows and an industrial feel. It's just damn cold in there, but the building is old, so that can be excused.
The Italian boyfriend and I arrived before 7 PM, so no reservation was needed, but I recommend them. Usually, the line up is out the door (literally), and wait times can be over an hour. It's nice that the staff usually looks after you by offering drinks if you wait too long. Tonight, we found that we waited at our table for a while before the waitress came, but since she was also working the bar, this can be excused.
I ordered the Doppio, which comes standard with Bufala mozzarella, and the Italian had the Extra Margherita, which had fiore di latte and fresh cherry tomatoes.
The usual food auctioning happens when the pizza arrives, but I can only chalk this up to the fact that the food runner was not the bartender who took our order.
My pizza was excellent. The sauce was fresh and tasty, the mozzarella was earthy. The Parmesan cheese added a touch of salt, which made the flavours pop. Finally, there was enough sauce, not just a cheap daub that seems to evaporate once the pizza hits the oven. Italian boyfriend's pizza had the added extra sweetness of the cherry tomatoes and from the left over evidence (that means there wasn't a speck of food on our plate after eating), I have to say, Queen M is back to making excellent pies. I just wish they would put a swirl of olive oil on the pizza, like back in ol' Napoli.
Consensus? 10/10!
Of all the pizzerias I've been to, I have to say that the interior of Queen M is the nicest. The bar is down stairs, the upstairs is the main seating area, which has beautiful windows and an industrial feel. It's just damn cold in there, but the building is old, so that can be excused.
The Italian boyfriend and I arrived before 7 PM, so no reservation was needed, but I recommend them. Usually, the line up is out the door (literally), and wait times can be over an hour. It's nice that the staff usually looks after you by offering drinks if you wait too long. Tonight, we found that we waited at our table for a while before the waitress came, but since she was also working the bar, this can be excused.
I ordered the Doppio, which comes standard with Bufala mozzarella, and the Italian had the Extra Margherita, which had fiore di latte and fresh cherry tomatoes.
The usual food auctioning happens when the pizza arrives, but I can only chalk this up to the fact that the food runner was not the bartender who took our order.
My pizza was excellent. The sauce was fresh and tasty, the mozzarella was earthy. The Parmesan cheese added a touch of salt, which made the flavours pop. Finally, there was enough sauce, not just a cheap daub that seems to evaporate once the pizza hits the oven. Italian boyfriend's pizza had the added extra sweetness of the cherry tomatoes and from the left over evidence (that means there wasn't a speck of food on our plate after eating), I have to say, Queen M is back to making excellent pies. I just wish they would put a swirl of olive oil on the pizza, like back in ol' Napoli.
Consensus? 10/10!
Tuesday 21 August 2012
Pizza e Pazzi, 672 St. Clair Ave West
At last! I'm eating at a pizzeria that has been certified Verace Napoletana.
Pizza e Pazzi has two locations, one on St. Clair by Wychwood Ave, and at 1182 St. Claire Ave. West, by the venerable Marcello's.
Pizza e Pazzi was born of a love story--the owners met on a beach and some how decided that they would open a Verace Napoletana. Sounds good to me!
I can't seem to find too much information on who the pizzaoilo is, but our waiter actually is Italian (he said "stop-ed", always a sign that the person is Italian when they are pronouncing the "e" in the past tense. I'm saddened by this. Who is back there, cooking my za? Did they take the course? If it's someone's Nonna, then fine, but if not, I would really appreciate a bit of information on the chef.
The interior of the Wychwood location is a bit bland. There is nothing original or different about it--then again, it's clean and the staff are cheerful and friendly (which in Toronto, is a change!). Unfortunately, we are seated at the tippy table (quickly corrected by the hostess), and the AC is cranked to Arctic. Sadly, there is also bad Italian pop music being played, which means that as our evening goes on, we're forced to raise our voices over the music.
We start off with walnut bread, and some unidentifiable tapenade. I think one of them might have been pumpkin. It's ok, but I'm not going to write about it, because it doesn't deserve to be written about.
Our suppli arrive. At first, we thought they were expensive, but we receive two rice balls, so that was a pleasant surprise. They aren't as lightly fried as Falasca, but they are still excellent.
Our beer choices are Czechvar (which was yummy) and Peroni. We skip on the Peroni, as previously discussed--Italian beer--not so good.
Our pizzas arrive promptly. They are the perfect size, slightly smaller than the plate, charred on the edges, and what pleases me most is the olive oil, poured on top. I've had to ask at other pizzaerias, so not to be forced to ask here makes me happy. It's the little things in life, isn't it? Pizza e Pazzi also offers bufala mozzarella standard on their Margherita, instead of charging extra for it.
The sauce is sweet and tasty, and I love the fact that I can roll the pizza up into a funnel .
We were interested in dessert, but were too full to sample.
Out of 10? I give Pizza e Pazzi a 9.5.
Pizza e Pazzi has two locations, one on St. Clair by Wychwood Ave, and at 1182 St. Claire Ave. West, by the venerable Marcello's.
Pizza e Pazzi was born of a love story--the owners met on a beach and some how decided that they would open a Verace Napoletana. Sounds good to me!
I can't seem to find too much information on who the pizzaoilo is, but our waiter actually is Italian (he said "stop-ed", always a sign that the person is Italian when they are pronouncing the "e" in the past tense. I'm saddened by this. Who is back there, cooking my za? Did they take the course? If it's someone's Nonna, then fine, but if not, I would really appreciate a bit of information on the chef.
The interior of the Wychwood location is a bit bland. There is nothing original or different about it--then again, it's clean and the staff are cheerful and friendly (which in Toronto, is a change!). Unfortunately, we are seated at the tippy table (quickly corrected by the hostess), and the AC is cranked to Arctic. Sadly, there is also bad Italian pop music being played, which means that as our evening goes on, we're forced to raise our voices over the music.
We start off with walnut bread, and some unidentifiable tapenade. I think one of them might have been pumpkin. It's ok, but I'm not going to write about it, because it doesn't deserve to be written about.
Our suppli arrive. At first, we thought they were expensive, but we receive two rice balls, so that was a pleasant surprise. They aren't as lightly fried as Falasca, but they are still excellent.
Our beer choices are Czechvar (which was yummy) and Peroni. We skip on the Peroni, as previously discussed--Italian beer--not so good.
Our pizzas arrive promptly. They are the perfect size, slightly smaller than the plate, charred on the edges, and what pleases me most is the olive oil, poured on top. I've had to ask at other pizzaerias, so not to be forced to ask here makes me happy. It's the little things in life, isn't it? Pizza e Pazzi also offers bufala mozzarella standard on their Margherita, instead of charging extra for it.
The sauce is sweet and tasty, and I love the fact that I can roll the pizza up into a funnel .
We were interested in dessert, but were too full to sample.
Out of 10? I give Pizza e Pazzi a 9.5.
Thursday 16 August 2012
What's the Diff?
I had an interesting comment the other day about this blog:
"What's the difference between a Verace Napolitana and a Canadian pizza?"
OK, I have obviously neglected my duties in explaining what you should be looking for when you're dining out. One thing you should know is that Pizza Pizza is NOT a pizza. I think it might be cardboard.
A Vera Napolitana pizza is strictly controlled by the Verace Pizza Napolitana, which is an association devoted to pizza and how it should be made. According to the association, it should be made from: 'wheat flour type "00" with the addition of flour type "0" yeast, natural water, peeled tomatoes and/or fresh cherry tomatoes, marine salt, and extra virgin olive oil. Other added ingredients can include, garlic and oregano for "Pizza Napoletana Marinara", buffalo milk mozzarella, fresh basil and fresh tomatoes for "Pizza Napoletana Margherita Extra" and mozzarella STG or Fior di Latte Appennino and fresh basil for "Pizza Napoletana Margherita".'
The dough should be prepared thus: Blend flour, water, salt and yeast. Pour a liter of water into a mixer, dissolve between the 50 and the 55g of salt, add 10% of the total amount of flour, and then add 3g of hydrated yeast. Start the mixer, and then gradually add 1800 g of flour until you achievement of the desired dough consistency. Combining the ingredients should take 10 minutes.
Next, mix the dough at low speed for 20 minutes, until the dough forms a single ball. To obtain the optimal dough consistency, it is very important to control the quantity of water, such that the flour is able to absorb it all. The mixture should be sticky, soft and elastic to the touch. The dough should be the consistency "to the point of pasta". This can vary from one pizza maker to another.
The dough should be then left to rise under a damp cloth for approx. two hours. The dough is cut and shaped by hand, but for a pizza Napolitana, it must weigh between 180-250 grams. After that, the balls are left to rise again for approximately 6 hours.
The balls are then shaped into round, flat pizzas, using only the hands (no rolling pins here!), from the centre to the outside. The final pizza round should only be 0.3 cms thick. Once the crust is ready, the sauce is spooned on in a spiral, starting from the centre. Use only 60-80 grams of sauce, made from pressed, peeled San Marzano tomatoes (hopefully from the hills around Naples). Add your oregano, salt and garlic. Add slices of bufalo mozzarella. Lay on the fresh basil, and top with extra virgin olive oil, poured, again in a spiral motion.
Now comes the cooking. The pizza must be baked in a wood fired, ceramic oven, which has been heated to 485C, and baked no longer than 60-90 seconds (oh how my heart would bleed when I lived in Italy and the nights were still over 40 degrees C and the poor pizza maker would be working hard in front of his oven....). The edges should be slightly burned, and the mozzarella melted, basil crispy. When you cut the pizza (it should not be cut by the restaurant) into triangles, the centre should be soft enough to allow a person to roll the pizza into a funnel shape. A qui, mangio cosi!
Now, can any one tell me if a Canadian pizza is made to such exacting standards, with government control and designation? If so, please direct me to the right place. I would love to read about it.
"What's the difference between a Verace Napolitana and a Canadian pizza?"
OK, I have obviously neglected my duties in explaining what you should be looking for when you're dining out. One thing you should know is that Pizza Pizza is NOT a pizza. I think it might be cardboard.
A Vera Napolitana pizza is strictly controlled by the Verace Pizza Napolitana, which is an association devoted to pizza and how it should be made. According to the association, it should be made from: 'wheat flour type "00" with the addition of flour type "0" yeast, natural water, peeled tomatoes and/or fresh cherry tomatoes, marine salt, and extra virgin olive oil. Other added ingredients can include, garlic and oregano for "Pizza Napoletana Marinara", buffalo milk mozzarella, fresh basil and fresh tomatoes for "Pizza Napoletana Margherita Extra" and mozzarella STG or Fior di Latte Appennino and fresh basil for "Pizza Napoletana Margherita".'
The dough should be prepared thus: Blend flour, water, salt and yeast. Pour a liter of water into a mixer, dissolve between the 50 and the 55g of salt, add 10% of the total amount of flour, and then add 3g of hydrated yeast. Start the mixer, and then gradually add 1800 g of flour until you achievement of the desired dough consistency. Combining the ingredients should take 10 minutes.
Next, mix the dough at low speed for 20 minutes, until the dough forms a single ball. To obtain the optimal dough consistency, it is very important to control the quantity of water, such that the flour is able to absorb it all. The mixture should be sticky, soft and elastic to the touch. The dough should be the consistency "to the point of pasta". This can vary from one pizza maker to another.
The dough should be then left to rise under a damp cloth for approx. two hours. The dough is cut and shaped by hand, but for a pizza Napolitana, it must weigh between 180-250 grams. After that, the balls are left to rise again for approximately 6 hours.
The balls are then shaped into round, flat pizzas, using only the hands (no rolling pins here!), from the centre to the outside. The final pizza round should only be 0.3 cms thick. Once the crust is ready, the sauce is spooned on in a spiral, starting from the centre. Use only 60-80 grams of sauce, made from pressed, peeled San Marzano tomatoes (hopefully from the hills around Naples). Add your oregano, salt and garlic. Add slices of bufalo mozzarella. Lay on the fresh basil, and top with extra virgin olive oil, poured, again in a spiral motion.
Now comes the cooking. The pizza must be baked in a wood fired, ceramic oven, which has been heated to 485C, and baked no longer than 60-90 seconds (oh how my heart would bleed when I lived in Italy and the nights were still over 40 degrees C and the poor pizza maker would be working hard in front of his oven....). The edges should be slightly burned, and the mozzarella melted, basil crispy. When you cut the pizza (it should not be cut by the restaurant) into triangles, the centre should be soft enough to allow a person to roll the pizza into a funnel shape. A qui, mangio cosi!
Now, can any one tell me if a Canadian pizza is made to such exacting standards, with government control and designation? If so, please direct me to the right place. I would love to read about it.
Tuesday 7 August 2012
Falasca SPQR 2059 Yonge St. Toronto, ON
We
have a joke that the SPQR stands for Sono porchi questi Romani, instead of “Senatus Populusque Romanus” but the joke
falls flat at Falasca, because the service is excellent, and the SPQR has been
re-worked to stand for “Specialty Pizza
Quadrata and Round”, the two types of pizza served by the shop. You can go at lunch and order your quadrata
(or slice) by weight, instead of North American style, which is by slice only, or go at dinner to have a round pizza.
While not a Vera Nepolitana,
the restaurant deserves a review, as well as a visit, so a person can decide
which they prefer—the crispy, Roman style crust, or the softer Neapolitan
style.
Falasca has been open for
about a year, the owners being Alessandro Buccianti and Alfiero Falasca. Alfiero has a world pizza championship, so I
have high hopes.
The interior is a stark
white, with antique prints of Rome
We start our meal by ordering
a suppli a telephono, which is a form of a croquette, consisting of rice,
mozzarella, coated in breadcrumbs and egg and then fried. Ours is hot, beautifully fried, not too much
so it’s greasy, but enough to be crunchy. The mozzarella pulled out of the suppli in
strings, thus giving the nickname “telephono”, it resembles the cord on a
telephone. Not that anyone uses a
landline in Italy
Italian boyfriend ordered the
special pizza of the night, an Imperiale, which consisted of sauce, cherry
tomatoes, fresh basil and arugula, and bufala mozzarella. His toppings were all of superb quality,
fresh, and the cherry tomatoes’ sweetness complimenting that of the sauce. I have the prosciutto, with fresh sauce and
fior di latte mozzarella. I don’t mind
that style of mozzarella, but I prefer the bufala, which has a slightly more
earthy flavour. I have no complaints
about the crust, which is perfect—crispy on the edges and charred slightly,
soft in the middle. I just can’t cut the
damn thing, as the knives aren’t sharp enough.
Good thing no one is sitting next to me, because I would have brained
them with my elbows see-sawing back and forth.
The beer choices leave something
to be desired, as they only sell Italian beers.
Italians do many things well, but beer is not one of them. If you’re
having a beer when you go, make sure you get the Costello, which is from the north
of Italy
Service here is perfect—not too
obtrusive, but always on hand when you need something and friendly.
Cost of a pizza is between $9.25-$14.00. We ate and drank for two for slightly over
$50.
Rating—9/10.
Monday 9 July 2012
Defina 321 Roncesvalles Avenue Toronto, ON
Since I lived in Napoli, I've been searching for the perfect
Nepolitan pizza here in Toronto. I miss the soft crust, the sauce, the
mozzarella. Every time I find a place that's close, I would tell my friend
Nunzio about it. He finally asked me why
I don't blog my finds. So here I am.
For those of you who are wondering what I mean by a
Neapolitan pizza, here's a link to the certification process for a Verace
Napoletana. http://www.verapizzanapoletana.org/
As you can see, the pizzaioli of Napoli take their craft very seriously,
even hosting pizza Olympics each July (I've been there--a better night of
dining a person could not ask for).
The first place I'm reviewing is actually not a certified
Vera pizza, but since it's been the latest place I've even, I decided to start
here.
Defina is in Roncesvalles, and since the chef has taken
lessons from 11 time world champion pizzaiolo Tony Gemignani, I'm
hopeful. I just also hope it's more
substance than style, because Gemignani has won world pizza aerobatics. I never
saw any actually toss a pizza in Italy.
I'm not going to concentrate too much on the interior of a
place, it's the pizza I'm reviewing, but for those who find aesthetics
important, this place isn't bad. Bit
narrow, but it is an old neighborhood, and a tich on the loud side.
The restaurant offers a choice of crust, Roman, which should
be thin and crispy, or Neapolitan, which should be soft. I prefer the soft, so I choose a quattro
fromaggi as well as crostini and arugula salad.
My friend Phil orders sardines. My Italian boyfriend asks for the
burrata and tomato salad.
When our food appetizers arrive, I'm not impressed with the
fact that the food is "auctioned" off (a personal pet peeve of mine.
How hard can it be to remember who ordered the salad?) and our drinks are
passed over the top of our heads, as well as the plates, which means I get a
good whack from a large salad plate on my head.
The sardines are excellent, crispy and salty. The crostini
is inedible--too much garlic, which overwhelms the palate and there is no other
flavor. The dressing on the salad is MIA, so I feel like we're eating grass.
While the burrata is excellent, the dish is too early, as the tomatoes are not
flavorful. Or perhaps the chef doesn't
take the time to select the produce him/herself and instead relies on a
restaurant supply company.
When the pizzas arrive, I am disappointed. My crust is not
Neapolitan at all. It's too hard, far
too Roman--I can't understand why the restaurant offers both styles of crust if
they are incapable of producing them. A
Neapolian style crust should be soft, and I should be able to roll the pizza
slice into a funnel and eat. The edges are like a cracker crust. The sauce, however, is excellent. It's tasty, and doesn't require any dash of
olive oil on top. I can only assume here
the chef has not skimped and has ordered San Marzano tomatoes.
Out of 10? I give Defina a 7.
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